5/31/2023 0 Comments Quickshade ink vs dip![]() ![]() Dipping miniatures (small/medium sized).Board game and tabletop RPG miniature painting.Speed painting a large number of miniatures.And it is absolutely how I would handle the dip on fragile, detailed minis like the Wargames Factory/Warlord skeletons.Summary: Best Uses for Army Painter Quickshade It's a little more complicated than, 'I dipped a 200 model goblin army last weekend, just in time for the tournament', but it consistantly produces quality models using a method much faster than traditional basecoat-wash-highlight-detail methods for your showcase minis. Once you get the hang of it with batches of infantry-sized minis, you'll get a feel for how long it takes the dip to settle and pool, and you'll be better at judging if you need to do larger models all at once and wait to wick, or slather-and-wick in sections.Īnyway, that's my method. It takes a lot of words to describe, but the wicking step usually only takes a minute or two for an entire batch, so you can go ahead an slather the next batch, check and wick the pooling on the previous batch, etc, etc. Occasionally wipe the wicking brush dry on the shop cloth and, when done with removing the pools, rinse it in the mineral spirits and dry thoroughly on the shop cloth. Use the second brush - kept clean and dry, to wick excess dip out of the pools until you're happy. Then, slather the second batch, and once the second batch is done, go back and check the first - the dip should have settled enough to have pooled up. Slather that crap on there - no care needed. I paint the stuff on the first batch of minis with the first brush. Since I'm usually doing this on a unit or entire skirmish force at one time, I go in even batches of 5-10 minis at a time. The dip method might save you time on an entire army, but is messy (as mentioned above, tarps-in-the-garage messy) and physically taxing (again, as mentioned above, 'sore/torn rotator cuff' or 'jerry-rig a miniature grip for your power drill'). I ALWAYS brush this stuff on for control. I always have two brushes and a shop cloth handy as well. I also pour some mineral spirits into another glass jar for cleaning my brush. I tend to use a disposable plastic spoon to transfer, then thin the stuff with spoonfuls of mineral spirits at roughly 9::1 stain::spirits. I transfer the stuff into small glass jars, as a quart it hard to work with. I actually like Antique Walnut better than Strong Tone, as it's slightly warmer and makes for much better natural materials like skin, leather, and bone. They're not exact matches, but close enough. The magic matches are Pecan = Soft Tone, Antique Walnut = Strong Tone, and Tudor Black = Dark Tone. ![]() ![]() I don't use Army Painter Quickshade, as it's just repacked local-equivalent of Minwax Polyshades, which costs about $12 USD for a quart. Like, the only time I paint groups of miniatures without a starter mini is for models I can paint in my sleep like Imperial Guard, rats, skeletons, and zombies I map out my technique in the most efficient manner possible and go into factory mode, painting the rest of the models together step by step. When painting groups of new models I always start with one model at time until I get the results I want. I tell you this out of bitter experience as I have done the same thing myself and we all gotta learn somewhere. You could also file and trim the mold lines right now but that will involve a lot of touch of work- you will have to decide for yourself which is less work. I would seriously consider stripping the models with Simple Green and a tooth brush, filing off those mold lines and starting over. Honestly it's the mold lines you should be worried about, they are very noticeable and will only get more pronounced once you highlight or dry brush. Paint job doesn't look bad at all a little TLC with shading and highlighting can give impressive results.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |